styleDeclassified

All men are capable of style

0 notes

Declassified on the street

image

Travis Abbott, Interior Designer

spotted at 11th and 6th, New York City

Who are you wearing?

jacket, shirt, tie - Brooks Brothers

jeans- Levi’s Red Label

shoes - Cole Haan

hat - Tracy Watts

pocket square - Paul Smith

bag - Barneys (private label)

Who’s your favorite designer(s)?

Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent

What’s the one item of clothing you can’t live without?

classic white fitted shirt.

What’s your favorite store(s)?

Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys (for shoes)

Who is your greatest style influence?

Grandmother, Aunt Barbara, Mother

Describe your style?

Crosstown - the convergence of uptown polish and downtown chic.

What’s your best style tip?

Confidence is your best accessory.

*for design inquiries go to: travisabbottinterior.com

Filed under Men's style Mens Fashion Mens Street Style fashion style Travis Abbott interior designer trendsetter impeccable style dandy Travis Abbott Interior interior design dapper dapper gent

6 notes

Ledbury - A luxury shirtmaker on the rise.

                              image

I thought of writing this article primarily as a review, of a luxury shirt company on the rise. But I soon realized there was so much more to the Ledbury story. In a time of high unemployment and rampant layoffs I hope their story can serve as inspiration to those of you who are unemployed, underemployed, laid off from a great job, and those with an idea, seeking the motivation to chase a dream and start a business. 

The company was started by Paul Trible and Paul Watson, two Americans at business school in England. The day before graduation in 2008, Lehman Brothers collapsed, and the finance jobs they had lined up in London disappeared with the ensuing financial crisis. Instead of sitting around and moping about the anemic job market, they defied conventional wisdom and all the naysayers as they hatched a plan to launch a luxury shirt business. They identified a void in the seemingly over saturated luxury shirt market and decided to fill it. After the financial collapse hit, many men, uncertain about their job security started to cut back on their spending, especially luxury purchases. The man accustomed to spending $300 for a custom shirt, may no longer be willing to spend that amount, but what if he could spend half that amount on a luxury shirt, that was made from the same quality Italian fabric, with the fit and finish of a custom shirt…..
Long fans of the custom tailoring of London’s famed Savile Row and the fine shirtmaking of Jermyn Street, the guys already had an appreciation of fine clothing. Before starting the business, Trible actually apprenticed for a year with one of the most respected shirtmakers on Jermyn Street.  
                 image
                 Paul Trible, Paul Watson   

The company was launched in December of 2009, with Paul Trible in charge of design and Paul Watson running the operations. Today Ledbury is based in Richmond, Virginia and their shirts are manufactured in Europe. The fabrics used are from the finest Italian mills, such as Albini and Monti.

Besides quality and price, what you may ask, separates Ledbury from the competition. They’ve made some seemingly simple adjustments that will put a smile on the face of even the most discerning shirt connoisseur. They slightly lowered the second button from the top, to provide greater comfort when wearing your dress shirt without a tie, they added a special canvas lining to their shirt collars, in order to keep the collar up under jackets and sweaters. And lets not forget the mother of pearl buttons on all of their shirts, nice touch. Did I mention the amazing fit? I’ll delve deeper into that aspect shortly.

I would venture to say that their gamble has paid off. Over 50,000 shirts later and growing at a rate of 200% per year, the founders of Ledbury are looking like visionaries, they’ve successfully managed to create a niche market in a seemingly over saturated sector.

Ledbury by the numbers -  98% of sales are online, and an impressive 60% of customers reorder in the first year. With a return rate of only 6.5% per year, it should come as no surprise that the company is growing so rapidly. Talking about returns, Ledbury has one of the best return policies in the business, one year from purchase no questions asked and they’ll even pick up the shipping. It’s refreshing to see a company willing to stand behind their product.

image

I recently met one of Paul Trible’s best friends, after hearing about this amazing company I knew I had to find out more. He made the introduction, and after a nice chat with the charismatic co-founder, I was offered the opportunity to review one of their shirts, here we go….

I found their website very clear and easy to navigate. The fabric selection is quite impressive, for even the biggest shirt snob. They offer two fits, Classic - a full cut for any size, without the excess fabric of some of their competitors, and Slim - a more more tailored cut with less fabric in the waist and torso.

                           image     

My shirt is the Blue Starks Twill, a Thomas Mason fabric, of the Albini Group in Italy. The collar is the Ledbury Spread Collar, I went with the classic fit, single button rounded cuff, mother of pearl buttons, price $135. My size is 17 1/2 x 36 1/2, so my sleeves had to be shortened by half an inch, this alteration is available for $10. My shirt arrived in a timely fashion, well packaged in a signature Ledbury box. The quality of the fabric was unmistakable from the first touch, it had an amazing hand to it, reminiscent of luxury shirts I’ve  purchased at much higher price points. The pattern, a classic tattersall in vibrant shades of blue, Ledbury did not disappoint. I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of my new shirt, it didn’t have the extra fullness through the body that some of the other luxury brands have, a leaner cut without being too fitted. The collar size was perfect and my sleeves were shortened correctly.                        

                       image                   

If you’re worried about sizing don’t be, there’s a helpful sizing guide on the website. They also provide a handy sizing comparison, to some of their competitors fits. I found the comparisons to be spot on.    

                         image            

I paired my shirt with a cotton summer suit from Calvin Klein, a navy tie from Ermenegildo Zegna and a white cotton pocket square.  

                                  image       

For a less formal look, I’ve added a navy blazer from Corneliani. As far as pants are concerned, I suggest mid/charcoal grey or beige family. For a more casual look, try a pair of dark wash jeans.

I love what Ledbury is doing with their Short Run ProgramThey release new shirts every two weeks for customers to vote for on Facebook, the winning shirts remain in the permanent collection. Its a great way to engage their devotees through social media. 

image

The future looks very bright for Ledbury, they’ve introduced new product lines such as custom leather belts made by local artisans in Richmond, Virginia. In addition to blazers, sport jackets, cuff links, ties and most recently and just in time for summer, swim trunks.   

image

                                       image

                           The Afton Cashmere Sport Coat

         image                   image

              Free Union Belt                           Monroe Cufflinks

        image                     image

               Grey Derby Tie                         Hilliard Swim Trunks

I hope you’ve been inspired by the success of Ledbury. I would wholeheartedly recommend them, if you’re looking for a quality product at a reasonable price.

****For more information or to make a purchase, please go to ledbury.com

Filed under Ledbury fine shirtmaker luxury shirtmaker mens fashion mens style custom shirt Paul Watson Paul Trible Lehman Brothers entrepreneur Thomas Mason Albini Monti Savile Row Jermyn Street Calvin Klein Corneliani Zegna facebook dress shirt luxury dress shirt bespoke shirts ecommerce free shipping free delivery Italian fabric

0 notes

Welcome back!!!

styleDeclassified is back from hiatus!! I’d like to thank our loyal readers for all the emails and inquiries. We’ve returned bigger and better to enlighten and inform, and to put the spotlight on those of you that exemplify men’s style.

Let’s kick things off with a great piece on Ledbury, a luxury shirtmaker you need to know about.

Mr.Alexander

0 notes

Declassified on the street

image

Blake, Fashion Industry

spotted at 55th and Park Ave, New York City

Who are you wearing?

Shoes, Jacket, Shirt, Tie - Gucci, Pants - H&M

Who’s your favorite designer(s)?

Gucci, J.Crew, H&M

What’s the item of clothing you can’t live without?

Tie

What’s your favorite store(s)?

Gucci, J.Crew, H&M

Who is your greatest style influence?

Ryan Gosling

Describe your style?

Classic American meets Lake Como, Italy.

What’s your best style tip?

Let your clothes speak for themselves.

Filed under Gucci J.Crew H&M Mens Fashion mens style street style mens street style

0 notes

Changing the Custom Shirt Game - J.J.Threads has arrived!!

                                     

image

                                                            

  image

There are numerous custom shirt companies on the market today, but only one had the audacity to turn the traditional business model on its head. Why should a custom shirt company only cater to their clients business attire? Don’t business clients have a life outside of the office, where they might want express their personal style through their choice of shirts? What about a social media component, creating a sense of community? Hmmm… this doesn’t sound like your father’s custom shirt company and its not.

Allow me to introduce J.J.Threads. The company was founded in 2010 by Jay Wich. After moving to Hong Kong, Jay became frustrated by the lack of shirting choices available to him.  A lover of the Hong Kong nightlife scene, he favored fun and funky shirts, but was having difficulty finding them. The only solution was to buy the fabric of his liking and have a local tailor make the shirts he wanted. After the overwhelmingly positive feedback he received, he knew he was on to something, hence the birth of J.J.Threads.

I recently started a dialogue with Jay after hearing from him, that he was a fan of styleDeclassified. I was intrigued by his novel approach to the custom shirt business, which was like a breath of fresh air over the traditional landscape. Custom shirts for work and play from the same company, its one stop shopping.

The only way to honestly review something is to experience it. After having gone through the process of selecting, ordering, and now wearing a J.J.Threads shirt, I can attest that I am a fan.

The entire experience is conducted online, I found the J.J.Threads website very clear and easy navigate. The first step was to decide whether I wanted to create my own unique shirt based upon their vast international array of fabrics, select a company pick or a customer favorite. I chose to make my own shirt, and settled on a pink fabric with white stripes from Portugal called “Alentejo.” Next was the customization, I selected the “Cut-Away” collar. A popular customization is the inner collar, I chose pink floral fabric called “Jasper,” a fun complement to the stripes for when I wear the shirt without a tie.                                   

                            image

                                                                           Alentejo

                            image

                                                                             Jasper

Cuffs, Inner-Cuff’s and Plackets, can all be customized in the fabric(s) of your choice. I selected a french-cuff, and decided not to make any further changes to the fabric. However I did choose to go with white buttons and the signature J.J. red stitching on the top button hole.                           

                                 image                          

There are four options on fit, ranging from “Slim” to “Gentlemen’s Fit.” Size can be determined using the standard sizing option, which utilizes traditional sleeve and collar measurements or XS to XXX sizing. I know my measurements exactly so I opted for traditional sleeve and collar.

You can also select the made to measure option, for that you’ll need a tape measure and somebody to assist you with the measuring. It’s a very simple process and clear diagrams and instructions are there to guide you on the site. 

neck                  neck

The standard turn around time once an order is placed is seven to ten working days and there is no charge for shipping to 25 countries around the world via FedEx.

       image            image

                                                           

                           image

                            suit, Canali   tie, Giorgio Armani                       

I received my shirt on time as promised. The fit was perfect, and I definitely selected a shirt that can be dressed up with a suit or dressed down with a pair of dark wash jeans.  

image 

image  

                   jeans, John Varvatos                                                     

Back to a point I touched upon earlier about social media and creating a community. Each J.J.Threads customer has the option of creating a brief profile and naming the shirts they create. The most creative names can get you selected as “Threadhead of the month.”Other clients can “like” your shirt and order the same shirt, you can also follow others whose style you appreciate. There are even incentives, such as earning a five dollar credit each time somebody orders your unique custom shirt creation. You’re not just buying a shirt, you’re becoming part of a community.

For those interested in having my shirt made, I named it “Declassified,” I know that was a stretch…

I wholeheartedly encourage you to consider J.J.Threads as they continue to change the custom shirt game one like at a time.

 ***** For more information about J.J.Threads or to place an order go to

jjthreads.com

Filed under custom shirtmaker custom shirts bespoke shirts bespoke mens fashion mens style J.J.Threads Jay Wich made to measure social media community Hong Kong John Varvatos Canali Giorgio Armani Fed Ex

2 notes

Demystifying the Pocket Square II

The pocket square is one of the finishing touches that I love to talk about. In terms of elevating yourself from dressed to well dressed its a small detail that every well dressed man should be acquainted with.

As promised, I wanted to show you how to achieve the classic pocket square fold known as the “square cut,” aka the “straight” and the “square ended.” This timeless classic fold has been enjoying increased popularity in recent years due in part to  the influence of fashion designers such as Thom Browne and Tom Ford, who meticulously highlighted the look in his movie A Single Man. In addition, t.v.shows such as AMC’s Mad Men have helped spur the retro revival. Its truly refreshing to see guys emerging from their sartorial shells, and embracing this timeless look.   

image

There are many ways to achieve every pocket square fold, I’m presenting two variations today. The first slide show displays the folded edge.

 

The next slide show displays the stitched edge.

Bear in mind there is no right or wrong way, personal preference is the key. However, I do suggest when wearing a pocket square with a colored edge that you do show the stitching.

image                                                     

 image         

Tip: When using a traditional cotton or linen pocket square always iron before folding to eliminate all wrinkles, ideally a touch of spray starch before you iron works wonders. Once you have achieved the perfect fold, to eliminate any bulkiness you can lightly iron over the finished pockets square then place in pocket. 

*** In case you missed my first pocket square post highlighting the four point fold, here is the link to it:

http://styledeclassified.tumblr.com/post/26647155180/demystifying-the-pocket-square

or just click on Archive and scroll down to July 6, 2012

Filed under A Single Man Mad Men Tom Ford pocket square square cut fold square ended straight pocket square Thom Browne AMC

0 notes

martinhanclarke asked: Mr. Alexander where do you recommend wallet conscious dads going for high fashion?

Thanks for your question Martin. This is actually a good time of year to score some great deals on fall/winter clothing because stores want to make room for spring/summer items, you’ll definitely find the greatest markdowns of the season. 

Online shopping is a great resource for high fashion at discounted prices. One of my personal favorites is GILT.COM, they have a variety of great sales running every week, you can always log on and find something and they have great customer service.

Next is the high fashion mecca Barneys New York, their legendary Warehouse Sale is now in full swing. If you don’t feel like dealing with crowds fear not, the sale is now available online at BARNEYSWAREHOUSE.COM.

Last but not least is a New York institution that has been serving up high fashion bargains for years, Century 21. They now have an online store at C21stores.com, running different sales every week. However, they only feature a fraction of whats’s available in the store, so when you’re in town definitely worth a visit.

**there are links to all sites and stores mentioned above

Filed under men's fashion high fashion on sale high fashion discounted GILT.COM Barneys New York Barneys Warehouse Sale Century 21 C21stores.com